Cheung Chau. A Taste of Hong Kong

Cheung Chau is small but fairly significant island lying to the south and west of Hong Kong Island about 40 minutes ferry trip distant. Unfortunately the ferries here are mainly enclosed catamarans, so the trips are often passed sleeping inside what seems like a large comfortable bus and much of the charm of the trip through the harbour is missed.

CC is significant because it has a history of a working community not forgetting the pirates, that has survived adverse weather and economic uncertainties over the years. The topography offers little in the way of protection from typhoons and other serious disruptions, but it appears in spite of all of that to remain a contributor to the overall economy from its fishing fleet and nowadays, tourism.

Imagine Largs without all the pensioners and no Nardinis and definitely no Fish & Chip teas with salt & vinegar.

My impression is there are almost as many seafood restaurants here as in Sai Kung, of which more later. It has the all the usual suspects; grafters selling holiday apartments and providing B&B. The ubiquitous McDonalds is here along with Circle K, a general store, and with a full crop of noodle shacks, the local meat and (wet) fish market and not a few stalls selling Kiss Me Quick type hats, sunglasses, bum bags and the rest. Yes, I admit to having bought a cowboy hat.

There are no cars as there no roads; although the pavements accommodate pedestrians, cyclists and three wheeled trucks (check out the ambulance picture) with much ringing and tooting of bells and horns. Not one accident did we see. In common with almost all of the SAR there is little in the way of local architecture that is typical apart from a temple which hosts a literal bun fight every year. The buildings are the last word in functionality with little consideration given to form and appearance and no one gets fat selling any kind of paint here.

The local industry is mainly ship maintenance, tourism, local services such as street cleaning and repair and the mainly elderly population of scaffys, mainly women who gather up the rubbish. These build impossibly high stacks, on their barrows, of flattened cardboard, polythene, aluminium cans, in fact anything that can't be swept up. They start at a point farthest away from the local rubbish /recycling yard and make their way, gathering as they go. Not all have a barrow with wheels. Some simply leave the biggest box intact and pile everything else into it dragging it along behind them. They obviously get paid for this but I am sure there is no such thing as minimum wage.

Everybody fishes and not just from the boats but rod and fixed lines are the preferred means of catching such tiny fish you'd hardly think it was worthwhile yet a great whoop of joy when the poor things are landed. One chap seemed to have a real knack as his line dropped in and just as quickly pulled out a poor wee tiddler.

However as with almost every community out here "Living is the Thing!" which means with virtual assurance of good weather lots of convivial exchanges in the open air either over food , drink or a cigarette. Often simply sitting together where public seating is provided and jawing enthusiastically and I'm pretty sure football ain't a hot topic.

I can't speak for the cigarettes but can confirm the impact of the weather, food and drink . Here a litre of Tsingtao lager at 20HKD(£1.60 app) and the sea food. Check out the photographs.

For lunch we were challenged by sweet crabs, prawns in garlic, sweet'n sour garoupa, steamed garoupa with greens, soy and ginger, choi sum(more greens), and scallops with noodles...such scallops mmm.

The only momentary hiccup came, when the whole garoupa was caught from the tank and offered for our approval in a poly bag. Minutes later he was the star of a vanishing act.

Back through Central's rush hour to the verandah for the sunset , Dry Martini and a delightful Sri Lankan chicken curry.